Why Chinese Shoppers Love Coperni

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Coperni's horn hoodie pinch Chinese retailer ENG Concept

Renata Kats

“There is immense imaginable successful China and we're only rubbing nan aboveground for now,” says Arnaud Vaillant, CEO of French marque Coperni. He’s upbeat and relaxed, sitting successful nan Paris workplace pinch his husband—and Coperni’s imaginative director—Sébastien Meyer. They don’t rather decorativeness each other’s sentences but are very overmuch successful sync.

The duo are conscionable backmost from Shanghai, wherever they launched a pop-up successful Machine-A and livestreamed pinch uber influencer Tao Liang—otherwise known arsenic Mr. Bags. Liang says that Coperni is “already very popular” among fashionistas successful China: “The Bella Hadid video [showing nan exemplary being spray painted for nan closing of Spring Summer 2023] is celebrated connected societal media platforms.” Coperni itself has complete 30 cardinal views connected Xiaohongshu.

Liang first heard of nan marque done its Swipe container erstwhile he saw it connected e-commerce level Farfetch. He became convinced of its icon status. In an interview, he notes its “unique shape” and high-end appeal: “many chic girls I cognize person bought it.”

The wide statement is that nan French marque is connected nan make successful China. “Chinese consumers already person a foundational knowing of nan marque and its positioning,” Andrew Lam, laminitis of imaginative agency Touch, confirms. He’s definite that “even pinch nan ongoing world economical downturn and challenges successful China’s luxury market, opportunities for maturation remain.” The brand’s secret? Its forward-thinking creativity. “We for illustration to usage Coperni arsenic a level for tech and innovation,” Vaillant shares.

Currently, Coperni has 68 stores scattered crossed nan state from Chengdu and Beijing to Zhenzhou and Wuxi. The marque declined to disclose turnover but states that Asia accounts for 20% of its business. China accounts for half of that. “Assemble by Réel is nan champion trading shop successful Shanghai. Net-a-Porter is nan biggest online outlet successful China,” nan marque explains. Best sellers see nan horn hoodie, nan span boots, nan hybrid trousers and nan aforementioned bags. Coperni’s China user loves pieces impactful, schematic and highly visual.

In June 2023, it opened a pop-up successful Hainan astatine China Duty Free Shopping Mall; July saw it screen Vogue China pinch nan exemplary Lina Zhang; and successful August it dropped a collaboration horn hoodie successful pinkish pinch retailer ENG Concept—timed nicely alongside Barbie. “The time nan movie was released, we had nan hoodie in-store. And because truthful galore KOLs and fans were dressed successful pinkish and we had our ‘pink’ photoshoot from nan hôtel amour successful Paris, it conscionable went viral saleswise,” Laura Darmon, purchaser head and business improvement astatine ENG, writes successful a correspondence.

“Entering done collaborations pinch conception stores aliases pinch a showroom is often nan first measurement successful exploring nan section market,” says Valentina Xu, co-founder of Brand consulting institution Càe Collective. Over email, Xu tells Forbes really this process helps to “validate nan brand's imaginable successful China and allows it to understand nan section marketplace and target consumers.”

Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, founders of French marque Coperni astatine Machine-A successful Shanghai, ... [+] China

Courtesy Coperni

Coperni’s Shanghai pop-up runs from October 24 to November 30. According to Machine-A laminitis Stavros Karelis, income person been “strong and successful statement pinch expectations.” In a correspondence, he explains that events specified arsenic nan Mr. Bags livestream thief to make nan user “so overmuch much connected pinch nan marque and create this typical affectional enslaved while purchasing a product.” Recent information confirms this: The State of Fashion 2024 study from The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company predicts that arsenic manner marketers reorientate their playbooks to stress semipermanent brand-building strategies, specified affectional responses will beryllium critical.

The Coperni duo are skilled successful fostering these, and looked astatine easiness pinch fans and KOLs alike aft nan MachinaA arena (Zhangzou Yuyu, Natasha Lau and Wu Ling were each successful attendance.) Meyer, who lived successful Shanghai a decade ago, admits his astonishment astatine really overmuch it has changed, particularly successful position of technological advancements. “It's truthful important to spell location because you can't understand it from nan outside,” he remarks.

This month, Coperni announced that a “dress shoe” pinch Puma will driblet globally successful January 2024—and clothing will follow. ENG’s Darmon has precocious expectations for this launch: “Coperni has this talent to make a merchandise basking connected societal media done their marketing—in nan measurement they seizure and advertise it. In China specifically, this benignant of crisp creation tin activity very good arsenic group present are much daring.”

China is eager for more. “They should travel present much frequently—to interact pinch Chinese consumers,” Liang prompts. Lam suggests a imaginable strategy: “What astir introducing a conception akin to nan successful collaboration pinch Bella Hadid successful Paris during Shanghai Fashion Week? Or different action would beryllium utilizing a Chinese personage for a showcase during nan adjacent Paris Fashion Week.”

Such initiatives person nan imaginable to create important buzz and engagement connected China’s societal platforms—but are difficult to engineer. Armand is unfazed. “People person been like, truthful really are you going to do different viral infinitesimal adjacent time? And we're like, travel on. It's not astir that, it's much like, we person an idea.” Whatever’s adjacent for nan pair, consumers are each ears.